If the contractor assures you based on his experience that a 2 in 1 paint and primer will do the job, consider asking him to back up that claim by providing a longer guarantee for the work. Treating the skin irritation where the tears flow onto the face should also be considered. In these applications, traditional primer will do a better job of preparing the existing surface for the paint to effectively adhere. We also maintain professional memberships in national coating and scientific associations reflecting our background in the technical and chemical aspects of epoxy resin systems for over 25 years. With clanging, creaking, and squeaking, an iron curtain is lowering over Russian History.
Still, most boat owners would rather apply 1 or 2 coats instead of coats and there is no reason that I can see why barrier coat vendors cannot thicken their products to reduce the boat owners burden to one or perhaps two coats of epoxy. Such efforts by the epoxy vendors would add to their mixing and formulating costs, reducing profits.
Also, considering waste, etc. Ideally, two coats of any coating product is best because it protects against thick and thin spots and pinholes left behind by a single coat. Still, for use as a marine barrier coat, one thick or thin spot, or a few pin-prick voids shouldn't be a problem. The few, if any, benefits from multiple coats probably isn't worth the time and effort involved if you can apply a single coat of a quality, carefully vendor thickened epoxy.
That epoxy should be solvent-free, not require haz-mat shipping, have no induction time, not require mica porosity inhibitors, not blush, and go on in a single coat. Is this too much to ask for the dollars being spent? I don't think so. Thick epoxies tend not to want to come off the roller and stick to a semi-smooth hull. The result is a thinner mil surface application from a product that could easily go on at 16 mils if the surface were rough or the application by brush.
Gravity can make it drip and sag. Knowing something about how to evaluate good quality epoxies from average or poor quality epoxies is important when price alone is not a suitable yardstick. With many marine barrier coat epoxies the sad fact is that you don't get what you pay for. An educated end-user is our strategy for improving the quality of not just barrier coat epoxies, but all marine epoxies.
How much epoxy do you need? Rolled on, most epoxies will give you about 8 mils - that's about square feet per gallon use a short nap epoxy roller - we sell them! By brush or paint pad you can get about mils square feet per gallon. Aim for mils for most boats. We find that the formula of boat length times beam times 0.
Remember to double that amount for 2 coats and triple for 3 coats. Note that our different epoxies come in different package size and different epoxy color. Depending upon the epoxy, packaging could be 1. Some people like to use multiple coats of different colors.
To do this you would need to use different products for each color, or attempt to slightly change the tint of a single product using a third party tinting agent. Barrier Coat Application Date: Fri, 12 Mar I expect I should apply a barrier coat Using your formula L x Beam x 0.
Can you recommend an epoxy, brushes, rollers, thinners etc? I would need to do the job? Hi Jeff I think I would purchase a 3 gal kit of our white or blue Water gard Also consider for the bilge, battery box, chain locker, etc. Another common practice is to alternate coating colors i.
Use our short nap epoxy roller or a paint pad everyone likes the Rubbermade brand of paint pads sold a Walmart - bit more control with the paint pad. For clean-up or thinning if going on too goopy due to low air or surface temp use MEK or xylene.
If you use a 'regular' paint roller, the sticky epoxy sometimes pulls the lint out of a new roller, leaving a fuzzy surface on your hull. Generally you don't 'officially' need to sand before the bottom paint if applied within a few days epoxies continue to cure for about a week but I like to suggest 'scratching up' the surface with coarse sandpaper any - say 30 minutes per side - to break up the glossy, slick surface of these epoxies.
We sometimes suggest a primer under the barrier coat, generally if the fiberglass is old, very dusty, etc. The barrier coat epoxies are solvent free, so all bonding is a surface thing only.
Note that you could use several coats of the CM 15 as your barrier coat too it's thin, so probably 3, maybe 4 coats. Being thin, it will probably go on with a regular roller instead of an epoxy roller.
The CM 15 color is ivory. It has a very long potlife and is probably the epoxy to use in temps over 85 or so degrees F. If applying a barrier coat in temps below about 60 or 65 degrees F, consider our using our green Cold Coat epoxy. Regards - Paul note: Over the course of the last three days, I applied the black and then the ivory CM epoxy paint to my fiberglass sailboat. The last coat went on last evening about 6: Sanding at 24 hours was almost o.
I waited until 36 hours and it sands without any clogging. Two coats of black, followed by two coats of ivory Applied using your 9" close nap roller covers. Each coat took about 45 minutes to apply. The last coat of ivory, I tried to apply more heavily and used all the paint, just as I finished.
The surface is why I would call a mild orange peel texture As soon as I can sand, I intend to use a longboard with grit to knock the high points down. Every boat repair project requires knowing product options, selecting the right products in the right amounts and knowing how to use those products.
You can only do that with a one-on-one conversation with your product vendor. We try to earn your business one phone call at a time! T his current page is all about: More user comments on this product at: Hi Paul I think we have some converts.. Your epoxy does everything you said it would.. I just finished coating my 41' Chris Craft and wanted to give you some feedback I had the gelcoat planed off not as much because of blisters Only about 45 in almost sq.
I used your blister repair kit with ease and both the penetrating resin and the filler worked very much to specs. Users report the Rubbermaid paint pads from Walmart work well , so I switched to one of your phenolic rollers. I had the wrong feeling that I wasn't putting on a thick enough coat so I think I overloaded it a bit and while the horizontal or almost surfaces levelled off well, the more vertical surfaces at the bow "cadscaded " run a little.
When finished I had applied 16 qts. Since I did it all by myself dumb! Overall my comments are that your products do exactly if not more than you say and I will strongly recommend them to other sailors with the tip that rolling this stuff takes muscles and is easier if you borrow some!
As to pot life I mixed about 3 pints at a time and applied it in about 20 minutes with no problem. Once again, thanks for your good products Being thinner it is more likely to 'run' like ordinary paint, rather than slowly sag like thick dense epoxy can do. As the temps warmed up and as the epoxy started to kick and produced its own heat the warmer temps probably thinned the epoxy a bit letting it begin to sag. I did 1 side - fine. The second side has tiny bubbles scattered about the size of a very small pea.
They pop when I push on them. What's that from and what's required prior to the second coat? Also, how long to wait before bottom paint? They are coming from out of the hull.
Second coat will not have same problem. You can just go over the popped bubbles or mix up a small amount of the CM 15 with thickener we have but in your case you could quickly get some talc powder at the drugstore and use that to 'putty' fill the bubble voids. Bottom paint in days is best but could wait years too!
As mentioned, the damage was not structural, but was evenly distributed below the waterline. Having helped a friend apply an 8 layer West System barrier coat in extremely good conditions only to have the hull re-blister in 2 years, needless to say, I was skeptical as to whether the effort was worthwhile. The boatyard that applied my barrier coat with your products tried to talk me out of the work stating that "barrier coats don't work".
Last week, I hauled the boat after two years in saltwater. The bottom was as fair as the day I put her back in the water with your epoxies. I will keep an eye on her, but I am extremely thrilled with the results to date.
Thanks for truly great products. What is the shelf life of your epoxies in a cool climate Pacific Northwest stored in a garage? Again, thanks for the great products; I will definitely pass my success story on to others. Most epoxies are too thick for a regular brush. Use with varnish, paints and thin epoxies.
Priced for disposable use. Paul, Last weekend we applied the waterguard to our 39' O'Day. I have the following feedback and questions. We tried paint pads. The first set were unsuitable as the pad attachment was not strong enough to resist the application force. We got pads from 7" Walmart that did not have the same problem. Even with careful application, it was very difficult to get an even finish. We used a paint thickness gauge to get 12 mils.
Your recommendation of measuring the area and comparing the epoxy used is not effective. The gauge worked well. In cold weather epoxy gets thicker. The pad seems to drag. The roller leaves a nice texture and is much much much easier.
We found the paint gauge invaluable in learning how much pressure to apply. We had no blisters so we went with one coat With our rolled on experience we had no drips or sags. Where the foam joins on the roller leaves a line in the epoxy when using the rollers we found at Ocean State Joblot. Rollers are definitely easier than pads. I would not recommend pads.
The pot life information is a little misleading as it applies to 6oz and is not linear. For hull and air temperatures of upper 60's and lower 70's using a large mixing pot we found that 4oz hardener and 8oz resin gave about 20 minutes which was just enough for application. Also, although we agree with "keeping the pot topped up", we don't recommend using the mixing bucket for more than two loads as remnants from previous loads will reduce pot time.
Think customer is mistaken here. I really recommend keeping the batch size to max 12 oz. There is obviously more waste with more batches but its ugly when it starts to set.
Applying bottom paint while the epoxy shows a fingerprint when touched. We carefully monitored the epoxy setting and applied bottom paint when we could see an imprint yet the epoxy was dry. This was for an area of 8 sq ft. As we agree with your philosophy of minimum VOC's and pro-environment, we have been using water based Hydrocoat tm bottom paint from Pettit for 4 years.
We applied a coat as suggested and as the paint dried, got a rather shocking result. We recoated with Hydrocoat and some small areas got covered, most retained the "cracks". After 12 hours another coat the cracks. Leaving the epoxy to cure for about 18 hours was fine. Hydrocoat went on with no problem, no cracks. My thoughts are that the suggestion to add the bottom paint at this stage may ONLY to non water based bottom coats.
Yes, I have seen similar 'cracks' when water based coatings applied over 'fresh' epoxy. Suspect you are the first person to use a waterbased bottom paint or a waterbased bottom paint so soon after applying the epoxy. Solvent based coatings, or more coats of epoxy, certainly can and are recommended to be applied sooner. As a rule of thumb I often suggest to wait 24 hours when applying a similar product and 48 hours when a 'major shift' in product type of coating over epoxy.
Most DIY'ers end up working weekend to weekend, with a week between coats. I tested applying wet latex paint over wet water gard epoxy with no problem.
Customer later applied his water based bottom paint over "5 minute epoxy repair" resin after a wait of several hours and got similar 'cracks' suggesting issue is tied to the bottom paint.
The epoxy paint is extremely high gloss. On unsanded areas the adhesion is poor. We sanded the sq ft hull with 80 grit which took the top off but certainly did not create a frosty overall surface. This took about 5 hours. Certainly not 30 minutes per side. To get all the shiny spots off would have taken 15 hours plus removed a lot of the epoxy.
Hopefully there is enough tooth for the paint to adhere. Again, largely related to using a waterbased product over the slick epoxy - like painting glass with latex paint For next time or if the bottom paint does not adhere, what do you suggest that would work to get paint to adhere to the epoxy without sanding. I have found that Liquid Sandpaper doesn't work on epoxy.
Epoxy primer is just solvent thinned epoxy - same gloss only thinner. Most of my many home built kayaks etc. Takes coats to hide the brushmarks like latex paint on a sheet of glass - but never an adhesion problem and never a regret that I didn't use a solvent based enamel over the epoxy for better adhesion etc. These products can be applied water and could save your boat if you keep them aboard see example. They can be used with fiberglass cloth even underwater.
They also make great bilge coatings see example. Other applications include ice boxes, engine rooms especially around battery acid , chain lockers etc. What can go wrong. Hull surfaces can be contaminated by such things as previous application of release agents, waxes, polishes and oils. Dust, dirt, water and oils can be a common airborne contaminants in boat work sites. Extensive sanding and blasting of hulls can ground sanding dust and other materials into the hull surface such that a simple washing or wipe down will not remove them.
All these factors can have an adverse affect on coating adhesion. Old fiberglass gel coat, weathered and sun damaged, or micro cracked by abrasive blasting or grinding to remove old coatings is not the best surface for epoxies, or any coating to bond with. An optional epoxy primer, like ESP , will help. By their nature, epoxies are hard and rigid. While some hulls are also very stiff and rigid others including but not limited to modern, light thin hulls, tend to flex, distort and bend.
In addition to structural causes hull thickness and weight hull flexing can be caused by but not limited to: Even long term vibrations can have an affect. When a hull flexes, either rapidly or slowly, hard coatings may respond by cracking, delaminating or disbonding. Aluminum hulls often flex a great deal and because exposed aluminum quickly forms an oxide layer, they can be difficult to coat and achieve adequate adhesion.
Moisture from both sides of the hull and from inside the hull can affect coating adhesion. Wood is unique because it expands or contracts based upon moisture. Other materials, including coatings and epoxies expand or contract based upon temperature.
Thus, wood and the coatings upon it move differently from each other. Because of the above issues the decision to apply, what to apply, and how to apply any sort of coating to a boat hull is the sole responsibility of the Customer.
Any suggestions; recommendations or procedures for surface preparation, selection and application of Products is given AS-IS without any warranty and is not binding to Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. In no event shall Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. The products are applied by others and Progressive Epoxy Polymers does not provide any warranties, whatsoever arising in connection with the use of these products.
You must make an independent determination whether to follow any or all of the above items based upon the numerous application variables at hand. It is provided AS-IS without any warranty and in no way expand the rights under which you have, or will purchase, this product or related products.
Pot life is affected by temperature, volume of epoxy mixed and shape of the container. Your use of these epoxies under these conditions is at your sole cost and risk. You must make an independent determination confirming the coating's resistance to the chemicals and temperatures present in your unique situation.
Buyer is solely responsible for testing the suitability of Product and determining quantities needed. Buyer is also solely responsible for compliance with local VOC Volatile Organic Compound regulations controlling the purchase and use of Product at buyer's location.
Carefully read and understand all Product application, safety precautions and MSDS information before ordering. Read more click here. Those products and service still available to you - call anytime and ask for Paul Oman. Available at Barnes and Noble and Amazon. Everything you need for boat repair and stitch and glue boat building.
Go from the contact page to our 3rd party storefront. No Sales Tax applied. Tolley's creeping crack sealer. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure. Dock Boat-lift restoration and repair. What is an MCU Coating? These are a unique type of coating much better known in commercial industrial painting circles than within the general public market. MCU contain lots of solvents which aids in penetrating tiny cracks and crevices.
The coating scavenges moisture from its contact surfaces and the air and undergoes an cross-linking molecular process which 'grips' or grabs onto surfaces for outstanding adhesion, even with poorly prepared surfaces. Removing internal surface moisture removes one of the key components necessary for rust development. The resulting dry surface aided by the stacking aluminum pigment platelets provides a physical barrier to air and oxygen, another necessary component for rust to form.
The result is a thin, hard coating that seals our air, water, salts, minerals etc. Its amazing adhesion results in a versatile coating well suited for use on steel, aluminum, concrete, fiberglass, wood etc.
The aluminum pigmented versions have no UV issues, can be applied at low temperatures and operate at temperatures of up to about degrees F.
In is used a lot in the industrial, automotive, marine and farm marketplaces. Learn more about Aluthane Wet Dry Epoxy. Need to fix, glue, patch, fill, bond, coat or cover something underwater? Need to do a fiberglass cloth and epoxy repair with a non sagging epoxy paste? Patching some wood rot? One of our customers repaired serious rot in an year old marine railway submerged under 12 feet of water.
It is also used on leaking pools and corroding barge mounted floating homes. Wet Dry tm epoxy paste is a leading example of consumer driven epoxy technology, resulting in a versatile, field friendly repair product for difficult environments.
It can be applied to wet, damp, or dry surfaces. A scoop of Part A and an equal scoop of Part B and you are ready to go. This is one of our top selling epoxies. People first buy it for a specific project and then generally buy more just to have on hand. The original repair to my storm shelter would have lasted years if the shelter would just shifting around in the ground. Use on wood, metal, fiberglass, cement. Amazing Products - Amazing Support. Buy Talk Chat Support. American manufactured, distributed, and sold epoxies and coatings.
People that like boat building and clear marine epoxy projects also like pictures of classic boats, yachts, marine wrecks, naval ships and 'funny' boats.
Your comments, suggestions, contributions and insights about this web page are appreciated. Any pictures, product or page feedback and suggestions to help future product users or page readers is win-win for everyone. Please click on the email address below to send us your remarks, and thank you for your response. Also, All in one paint and primer, will, by it's nature, tend to be thicker. That thickness will interfere with it's self-leveling properties, and as a thicker product, sanding will be more difficult.
In addition to that, most paint and primers would be formulated for walls. Furniture tends to take normal paint better, especially if there is any kind of delicate detail work. To anyone reading this article, just keep in mind that it IS true, however it is only speaking in generalities. I both paint, as well as primer, there are multiple types for different jobs.
Some will work at one job, while being totally inadequate for another. I prept the old covering as always and painted with the Home Depot stuff. It was gummy,sticky and took 2 coats and still looked like!
A polymer scientist would need to explain how the paint gets the primer molecules to stick to the surface before the paint molecules stick to the primer molecules. The whole reason for primer is to PRIME the surface and it also has more sticky molecules that adhere to the surface. Paint is made to stick to the primer and has different properties in the mix that make it more durable and pleasing to look at. I see no way on product can do both.
I was amazed at how well it covered with just one coat. I don't remember thinking the paint was particularly thick. It was very easy for me to use. I also painted a red bathroom with a light beige and again it covered well with one coat but I used 2 coats to make sure the color was even.
If you have to use 2 coats of a 2 in 1 paint, as far as the work goes if you use a regular primer and then a paint Re-finishing existing surfaces is in fact the biggest gray area when it comes to deciding whether 2 in 1 paint is an effective option. Since your cabinets are varnished oak and have therefore never been primed or painted, I would err on the side of caution and use separate primer and paint to assure strong adhesion of the paint finish.
If the contractor assures you based on his experience that a 2 in 1 paint and primer will do the job, consider asking him to back up that claim by providing a longer guarantee for the work. Also ask for references of past clients who went with a 2 in 1 product when re-finishing their varnished wood cabinets.
It's important to know whether the 2 in 1 finish stood up well beyond the duration of the contractor's involvement. Wow, somewhat surprised that a contractor would say a 2 in 1 would do the job over varnished cabinet's.
I always recommend a good bonding primer to my customer's! I have painted the inside of two houses and never used a primer. Just good quality paint and it always comes out fine. Use you own judgement when painting. If you are trying to go from dark to light then you most likely need a primer. Whenever possible it is better to remove wallpaper before painting the walls in order to have a better looking and more durable paint finish.
But, if you can't remove the wallpaper without damaging the wall beneath which may be the case in your trailer then you can paint directly over the wallpaper. I do not recommend using a paint and primer in one product, however. This is because most all in one paint plus primer products are water-based paint also known as latex paint and most experts recommend using an oil-based primer if painting over wallpaper.
This is because the water in latex primers can loosen the wallpaper's adhesion to the wall Benjamin Moore also has some nice tips for getting good results when painting wallpaper: It is the worst paint job I've ever had.
This paint is the worst I had ever used,I have to sand my walls because it runs like water. I'am surprised there no recall,. This new paint and primer is by far the worse paint I have ever used.
My rollers leave trails that have to be sanded between coats. I have used the same rollers with ordinary paint and never had a problem till now. I will be going to ACE to get my next paint. Behr and Valspar are going to lose big with these products. Don't ever let any painter use paint and primer in one in any new walls,because you will be able to see all the spackle joints' specialy if you have direct sun light coming in the room.
Most painters just want to avoid te extra step of priming it. Beware specially when you paint new wallls that never have been painted.
Took 6 coats to look almost acceptable. We painted our new walls with a very deep red from Aura, using a grey primer underneath. The primer made all the difference, and btw Aura is an excellent product, love it! I have been painting for 25 yrs. The best way to paint is the old fashion way. Good prep, primer and two What is happening with the new paints is the dry time is so fast it is leaving brush and roller or whats called is lap marks.
I have to use Floetrol to extend dry time in the new paints. The other option is to only buy paint without primer. These companies are making money on homeowners ignorance, most homeowners to not paint for a living. Dark colors because of their pigments always take two sometimes three coats. I always use a good primer on all my jobs because it gives you a good surface to paint on. The gray primer with red works very well.
There is no one coat. So when painting have patience. Good prep is the key to a good paint job. As a paint pro myself, I always try to educate my customer's on the proper way to use paint. No matter the wording on the can. Paint and Primer logo's are just that logo's they are meant to be simply a better coverage paint.
Read the back of the can it does say with proper preparation sanding, caulking, priming. So often people are quick to use something without actually reading , then complain because they used it improperly that is usually the problem. Though I do agree the dryers are too fast for most of my contractor's I recommend floetrol all the time to help with the paint.
I'm going to play it safe and buy primer. One of the things that sold me was that primer is less expensive than painting several coats of paint. Plus, I'm getting ready to paint over mold resistant sheet rock.
I want the finished product to look good so I'm not cutting any corners. I cleaned and prepped the walls, took down all the pictures, mirrors, and filled in the holes with joint compound. I then used Behr primer and paint mix and when it dried I could see every spot I had fixed. I tried a second coat on one area after it dried I could still see the spots I had repaired. So now I am going to prime the walls and hopefully that will work.
Alot of wasted time and paint. Its great Anonymous I can spend less time for painting a wall. I used a 2in1 when we went from flat white to a colored satin sheen. Should I have not done this?
Also, do I need to prime a patch job or can I cover with satin sheen paint?
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